Neuchâtel - a day trip by Mark Sukhija

Market at the Places des Halles in NeuchatelFrom the station, we strolled into the relaxing and convivial old town of Neuchâtel and almost as quickly stumbled accross the market at Place des Halles. A veritable plethora of local producers of foods and goodies were out in force and so were the locals. Fresh fruit and vegetables abound. And a baker with a fine assortmet of different types of clearly popular breads. We picked up a loaf - a fruit bread with raisins. OK, so tt just looked good and the place was popular with the local people there and abouts - so it has to be good right? (Update: actually it was excellent. It had the lightness of a sponge but in bread format and texture. Slight lemony colour on the interior with a decent sized crust and a good number of raisins. Definate lack of sugar which seems to overwhelm many mainstream fruit breads.)

The old town, yellow sandstone coloured, has a relaxing charm about it. It's almost a French provincial feel with plenty of coffee houses and eateries spilling out onto the street. The market also did what the Strasbourg Christmas Market failed to do last year and actually offered a decent selection of locally produced foods and local produce rather than touristic cr*p. The Alsatians would do well to learn fron Neuchâtel

Statue in the old town of NeuchatelSo after a good rummage around the market, we headed for luncheon at the Restaurant le Banneret (rue Fleury 1) in a 17th Century building in the centre of the old town. In the comfortable 1st floor, I took the Taglierini with tomatoes and basil which was freshly prepared and really quite enjoyable. M'learned colleaque indulged of the ravioli stuffed with spinach. Which, if I'm honest, was better than the Taglierini. Both were good - just one was better. The multi-lingual service (French, Italian, and English were all spoken) was excellent. The next time I'm in Neuchâtel , I'll be trying the le Banneret - especially as it's run by a pair of Italians who obviously know how to cook and do so!

After lunch we took the steepish walk up the rue de Château and the escalier du Château to the Collegial Church and Neuchâtel Castle. From the top of the stairs, there's a marvellous view over the roof tops of the old town and accross the lake which, in itself, would make the effort worthwhile.

The Collegial Church and Castle date from the 12th and 13th Centuries and is are fine examples of the Later Romanesque and Early Gothic The Façade of the Collegial Church in Neuchatel styles of architecture as this period was witness to the transition from one style to the other. The Church is built mainly in the sandstone found in the locality.

The evolution of the style of archicture during the 100 year construction is clear working backwards through the Apse and Choir (clearly Romanesque) to the three-aisle with pointed Gothic arches towards the main entrance.

The yellow colour of the sandstone, from which the church and the relaxing old town is constructed, is typical of Neuchâtel and is what Alexndre Dumas refered to when he described Neuchâtel as a "toytown carved from butter."

We headed back into the Old Town, with the intention of picking up a boat on the Neuchatel Lake - but misjudged the time and just missed the boat, so elected to enjoy a stroll on the promenade instead.

View of Neuchâtel from the lake side promenadeAs we considered catching a slightly later boat to Biel/Bienne, the heavens opened and the rain came plummetting down by the lorry load. So we ran round the front of the building, which looked (from our original vantage point) like a museum, to discover that it was, in reality, the post office / tourist office. We took shelter from what became hail and pondered our options with an assortment of other people in varying states of wetness.

The map informed us that we were a short distance from the Museum of Art and History of Neuchâtel. Which was handy. So when the rain lightened up, after sporadic bouts of thunder and lightening, we headed on.

As it turned out, there was an exhibition showing the history of Suchard (now part of Kraft Foods) on. The large exhibtion included an extensive history of the history of the Suchard business and various iconic posters, the Suchard family and the chocolate making process.

Façade of the Museum of Art and History of NeuchâtelThe stars of the permanent exhibition, however, are the automata by Pierre Jaquet-Droz and Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz. These beautiful figures, comprising a musician, a scribe and a mathemetician actually do stuff. The musician, unlike other figures whose fingers merely follow the keys, actually presses the keys on her organ which has two bellows and 48 pipes. The musician wears a beautifully embroidered dress and I'm quite sure any girl whose proud of her dolls would be green with envy at the site of such a beautiful garment. I'm certainly impressed at the workmanship thats gone not only into her dress but the modelling of all three. The Scribe and Draughtsmen resembled each other, one holds a pen and the other a quill. The automata are all beautifully constructed with eerily realistic complextions, clothing and postures. The organ of the musician is beautifully encased in patterned woods. Demonstrations are only held once a month on the first Sunday of each month from 14:00 to 17:00. Even without a demo today, it's a marvel to see how well these things look even when stationery.

Related Posts

Neuchâtel - statue in the old town A statue in front of the castle in old town of Neuchâtel
Neuchâtel - Collegial Church history A history of the Collegial Church of Neuchâtel
Switzerland - recommended hotels Recommended hotels in Berne, Fribourg, Lugano, Neuchâtel and Rapperswil
Berne - what not to miss What not to miss in the Swiss capital city of Berne
Berne - costumed Fasnachtler Costumed Fasnachtler in the Bernese old town
Berne - Fasnachtler Fasnachtler at the Berner Fasnacht in the Berne Bundesplatz
Berne - Fasnachtler playing the trumpet Trumpet playing fasnachtler at the Berne Bundesplatz for Berne Fasnacht
Berne Münster (Cathedral) - a brief history A brief history of the Cathedral in the UNESCO-protected old town of Berne


Further reading

Neuchâtel - where to stay - Personal recommendations on where to stay in Neuchâtel, Switzerland

Switzerland - recommended hotels - Recommended hotels in Berne, Fribourg, Lugano, Neuchâtel and Rapperswil

Neuchâtel - Collegial Church history - A history of the Collegial Church of Neuchâtel

Switzerland - sacred destinations - Nine of the finest churchs, cathedrals and monastries in Switzerland

Fribourg - Cathedral of Saint Nicholas - Notes on Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, Fribourg

Fribourg - The bells of the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas - The names of the bells of the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, Fribourg

Berne - recommended restaurants - Recommended places to eat and drink in the Swiss capital city Berne

Berne - Information on and about Berne

Berne - what not to miss - What not to miss in the Swiss capital city of Berne

Switzerland - places not to miss - Sixteen places not to miss around Switzerland

Neuchâtel Tourism - Official website of Neuchâtel Tourism

About Mark Sukhija

Mark Sukhija is a travel and wine blogger, photographer, tourism researcher, hat-touting, white-shirt-wearing, New Zealand fantatic and eclipse chaser. Aside from at least annual visits to New Zealand, Mark has seen eclipses in South Australia (2002), Libya (2006), China (2009) and Queensland (2012). After twelve years in Switzerland, Mark moved back to London in 2012. You can follow Mark on Twitter or Facebook