Meanderings on Switzerland
Mark was recently asked what a person should do during an extended visit to Switzerland. With no dates or specific interests, this is what he had to say. Needless to say, he ignored the skiing aspects of the mountaings as he knows nothing about that.
When thinking of Switzerland, many think of lakes, mountains, chocolate and fondue. While all of these have a place in a trip to Switzerland, there's quite a lot more.
If you're interested in wine, it's worthwhile spending sometime in the Neuchâtel and Vaud and Valais regions of Switzerland which produce highly acclaimed white wines including Le Dezaley. For red wines, the Italian speaking Canton of Ticino produces superb Merlots. If in Neuchâtel, do plomp for some locally fished fish and local wine, which will provide ample (probably enjoyable) nourishment at reasonable prices. Annual Swiss wine production is regularly around the 200 million bottle mark with only a very small percentage ever going for export.
In terms of food, you can divide the country into three regions, each corresponding to the French-speaking, German-speaking and Italian-speaking areas. The dividing line between French and German speaking Switzerland is refered to as "Röstigraben" (literally "Rosti-trench") as on the Germans-speaking side, they eat Rosti (fried potatoes) while the French-speakers don't.
In sausage terms, you should try the Vaudoise Saucisson, which is a pork-beef mix sausage and a speciality of the region of Vaud.
Polenta and risotto are staples of Ticino - the Italian speaking region of Switzerland. Much can also be found in pastadishes. Generally, there is much less emphasis on the mayonaisse style dressing found further north in Switzerland and greater use of olive oils etc.
In Graubunden, you will find that there is a lot of game on the menu - as hunting for the game still remains popular in the region. If you're coming the Autumn, you'll be here in game season and it's worth having some venison with some roast-horse chesnuts with red cabbage and spatzli - which is a very popular dish during the season.
There are several types of fondue, including a "Chinese Fondue" and a "Chocolate Fondue" although in all my years here, I don't know anyone whos had the latter - it's for the tourists, I suspect. The recipies for fondue vary accross the country with the blending of various cheeses varying quite dramatically, although La Gruyere is almost always a prime ingrediant. In Wallis, keep an eye out for Fondue Bacchus which is a fondue based on mulled wine.
If your interested in architecture, theres plenty of variety there too! The medieval old-town of the Swiss capital Bern hosts Switzerlands tallest Gothic building Cathedral, the Munster, the house in which Einstein wrote his Special Theory of Relativity in 1905, the astronomical clock and many arcaded shops, and many shops under street level!!
Solothurn, on the other hand, is Switzerlands Baroque city. The Italianite-style Cathedral dominates the skyline of Solothurn when viewed from accross the Aare river. Slightly further down Hauptgasse (the main street) is the Jesuit church with it's French-style facade. The facades of the two buildings, although from the same genre, make an interesting contrast in the viewing and development of the genre in the two originating countries. Solothurn developed as a Baroque center during the Reformation, during which Solothurn remained Catholic and, therefore, was the seat of the French Ambassadors to the Swiss Confederation.
Murten, unlike the above two, is a walled city. OK, so it's only three streets but it is a gorgeous little place perched on a hilltop above the Lake that bears it's name. Murten is also a convienant stopping point between the Gothic Fribourg and the limestone-coloured Neuchâtel.
The Bernese Oberland, with it's mighty mountains, has come to charecterise Switzerland and Swiss mountains. With the Eiger, the Monch and the Jungfraujoch and the lakes either side of touristy (but unsplendid) Interlaken, it is easy to induge in superlatives when describing the Bernese Oberland. An excellent base for exploring the area is the city of Thun - which is at one end of Thunersee (Lake of Thun) While it is less well connected than Interlaken in public transport terms, it is still excellently situated for access to both the mountains for their vistas and for many of the cities of the region. There's an extensive range of routes for hiking in the region too, which the local tourist office will be more than happy to help you will.
If you're interested in watching wildlife, the enormous National Park in Graubunden is supposed to be spectacular. I've not been there yet but have every intention of going but there's so much else to see!
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Related websites
- Glacier Express
Scenic train journey through the Alps of Switzerland - Ostschweiz
Travel information on Eastern Switzerland and Liechtenstein - Swiss Federal Railways
Official website of the Swiss Federal Railway (SBB/CFF/FFS) company - Swiss National Park
- Switzerland Tourist Board
Official website of the Swiss Tourist Board