19th June 2008

This morning we left the apartment early and headed straight for the Vatican Museums. Although the opening time was 08:45 and we got there at 08:30 and queues had already formed. Not to worry - they're a lot shorter in the morning than the mid-afternoon when the queues can be all the way back to the Basilica and last several hours of waiting.

The Vatican Museums are, justifiably, amongst the most renowned in the world. Amongst the star "attractions," are the Raphael Rooms and the iconic Sistine Chapel. Both the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel have been so well document elsewhere, that there barely seems any point telling you about them here. Needless to say, both are hugely impressive pieces of work. There is a huge amount of detail in the work of both the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms. What is difficult to appreciate from photographs is that the cieling of the Sistine Chapel is higher than it seems and, with that amount of detail, the binoculars I told you about in Milan were an absolute necessity. While the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms are undoubted stars in the museums, getting around still took us several hours. All morning actually and there is a wealth of material for you to gaze at. If I'm honest there's a bit too much which is part of the joy in that in the several times I've been through the Vatican Museums, I've never managed to follow the same route to Sistine Chapel twice.

After the Vatican Museums, we took an early lunch at a local trattoria we had discovered on an evening stroll around the area yesterday evening. A quick look at the queues entering the (Basilica San Pietro) and we were away to the Castel Sant'Angello. Originally built as the mauselleoum for the Emperor Hadrian, the structure was later fortified and served as a redoubt for the Popes in their times of beseigment. Indeed, the wall which runs from this now-fortress to the Vatican is clearly visible from both the Castle itself and from the street level and many cars still drive though the arches of the wall. Aside from being the mauselleoum of Hadrian and the marvellous vistas from the upper parts of the Castel, the Castel Sant'Angello is home to the "Farnese Rooms" - named for the Farnese Popes who constructed them - are simply astounding in their beauty. The evolution of the castle from it's original use to the current form and papal usage is well signed round the place.

The heat getting the better of us, we decided to take a siesta in our apartment nearby and headed out in the early evening for the St Peters Basilica - the centre of the Roman Catholic Church. In the early evening / late afternoon, queues to enter Basilica San Pietro were significantly shorter than earlier than in the day. Which was nice. Cooler and less queuing - now how's the smart tourist? Whatever your opinions of religion, the Basilica San Pietro is a complete and impressive work of art. And a profound statement of faith. In Catholic tradition, St Peters Basilica is built on the burial site of St Peter - one of the twelve Apostles of Jesus and first Bishop of Antioch and first Bishop of Rome. By tradition the Pope also holds the position of Bishop of Rome also. In Rome, St Peters is probably the most famous church (although St Peters is actually in the Vatican City State) the primary seat of the Bishop of Rome is Basilica of St. John Lateran which serves as the most senior church in Rome. St Peters serves as the primary Church of the Pope is his capacity as the Head of the Catholic Church.

Of course, of the enduring features of St Peters Basilica are the Swiss Guards in their distinctive uniforms. The Papal Swiss Guards, the bodyguards of His Holiness The Pope, have enjoyed a reputation for discipline and loyalty to their employers over the centuries and is the only Swiss Guard which is still in existance. The official dress uniform is Renaissance appearance in quite distinctive with its blue, red, orange and yellow colours. Although usually attributed to Michelangelo, the current uniforms were actually designed by Commandant Jules Repond (1910-1921) in 1914.

The Cuppola of St Peters Basilica is one of the most impressive in the world - not least for it's dimensions. While St Peters is an enormous Church, indeed it is the largest in the world, it remains a well light Church - far brighter than Gothic Churches. The Cuppola plays a key role in this light, as you can see from the picture, the windows allow light to stream into the Basilica above the altar. Above the Cuppola, the lantern allows the interior of the Cuppola to be lit. It's hard for me to describe the size of the Cuppola in words but when you're in St Pauls, take a look at the size of the alter and consider that it can fit inside the Cupolla in it's entirety. Then you have a real sense of scale. For a few Euros you can climb the Cuppola. From the first level - the roof of the Basilica - and further up on the lantern itself, impressive views of Rome and the iconic collonade in front of St Peters are available and worth the effort.

After supper, we headed accross the Pont Sant Angelo and into the historical centre (Centro Storico) of Rome. It's easy to get lost in the small streets which are veritable warren of alleys, streets and dead ends. Eventually, we found our destination - the famous Piazza Navona. Originally a race course during Roman times - which gives Piazza Navona it's distinctive shape - the Piazza is now famous for the fountains which are the works of one Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who also did the Collonade at St Peters Basilica. Evening is a special time in Piazza Navona with various musicians, performers and artists providing the requisite entertainment. While our comrades wandered amongst the exhibitors, we sipped our coffee opposite a saxophonist playing the Pink Panther theme tune and other classics.

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